Koraput district, situated in the south-western part of Orissa, bordering Andhra Pradesh and Chhattisgarh, is a heaven for nature lovers. It boasts of the alluring hilly landscape of the Eastern Ghats mountain range & its verdant valleys on one hand, and pristine streams and waterfalls on the other. Away from the hustle and bustle of big cities, Koraput is still an offbeat destination, not visited by many mainstream tourists. So, we decided to visit Koraput (and also Jagdalpur-Chitrakote-Dantewada in Chhattisgarh) during the Dussera/ Durga Puja holidays of 2022.
It was the evening of 1st October that we boarded the Samaleswari Express from Howrah Station. The train started at 10.20 PM. We had a long journey ahead, with the scheduled time to reach Koraput being 7 PM the next day.
Till we reached Rayagada (around 3 PM the next day), the journey was monotonous with the usual scenery outside and regular conversation inside. The kids were getting impatient, this being their longest train journey in these 8 years. But after Rayagada, the landscape outside changed dramatically as the train entered the terrain of the Eastern Ghats range. With the lush green mountains and forests, and pitch dark tunnels, it became really enthralling for travellers of all age groups. We all started counting the tunnels, and till Koraput we counted 36 of them.
We reached Koraput on time, and transferred to our abode for the next 3 nights – Hotel Alishan. It is located at a distance of around 3 KM from the railway station, and the auto-rickshaw charged us Rs. 150.
Our itinerary:
- Day 1 morning: Dumriput, Subai Jain Temple, Batrisha Singhasana, Rani Duduma waterfall
- Day 1 afternoon: Deomali Hill, Galigabadar waterfall, Damanjodi
- Day 1 evening: Jagannath Temple, Koraput Coffee Café in the town of Koraput
- Day 2 morning: Kolab Dam & Garden, Duduma waterfall
- Day 2 afternoon: Gupteswar Temple
- Day 3 morning: Transfer to Jagdalpur.
Day 1 morning: Dumriput, Subai Jain Temple, Batrisha Singhasana, Rani Duduma waterfall:
We started around 8.30 AM and our first stop for the day was at a temple at Dumriput, a small village located around 12 KM from Koraput town. It has recently become a tourist attraction for a huge statue of Lord Hanuman in a kneeling posture.
After a brief halt, we continued our journey towards the first major attraction of the day – Rani Duduma Waterfalls. On the way, there were 2 more spots – the Jain Temple at Subai and Batrisha Singhasana at Nandapur.
The Subai village has a small temple complex that consists of 5 ancient Jain temples, which are now in a state of neglect and some sculptures that are scattered in the open. Apart from that, one new temple has been newly constructed, where some local villagers were offering their prayers. The place itself is very peaceful and surrounded by greens and you can spend some time in this tranquil environ.
On the way from Subai to Nandapur, we passed a tribal haat (local market) where the locals were buying and selling their daily needs.
The Batrisha Singhasana at Nandapur was a real disappointment for us. Batrisha Singhasana (literal meaning – 32 thrones) actually turned out to be 32 stairs or steps that led us to a temple, where Durga Puja was being celebrated. I spoke to the local people and came to know that there is an idol of King Vikramaditya behind, which is normally accessible to tourists at times other than during the Durga Puja. If you are short of time, you can skip the spot and proceed directly towards Rani Duduma falls.
A 700 meter walk from the car parking space took us to the Rani Duduma waterfall. The pathway itself is nicely paved and bordered by forests and hills. On the way, there are statues of animals like gorilla and leopard that add to the attraction of the place.
Surrounded by rocks and trees, the waterfall itself is spectacular. The water here falls on huge boulders, glides gently on a smooth surface and then plunges down again.
We drenched our feet in the cool water. One can even take a bath here, and authorities have constructed a separate changing room for the visitors.
The entire place is quite well maintained. If you have ample time, this can be an ideal picnic spot, where you can sit on the rocky surface and spend your time amidst nature. Given the low footfall, I would say this is one of the most underrated places of Koraput.
While coming back to the car parking space, we drifted a bit to enter a nicely maintained meadow, with steps that led us to the rivulet created downstream of the waterfall. There is also a resting place, where we sat for a while and enjoyed the enchanting views of the surroundings.
It was already 12.30 PM by the time we came back to the parking lot. Our next destination was the Deomali Hill, at a distance of around 50 KM. On the way, we had lunch at a road-side dhaba at a place called Kunduli.
Day 1 afternoon: Deomali Hill, Galigabadar Waterfall, Damanjodi:
Deomali Peak, at an altitude of 1672 meter above the sea level, is located in the Chandragiri-Pottangi subrange of the Eastern Ghats. It is the highest peak of Orissa.
I was pretty excited about Deomali Hill – to experience the astounding 360 degree view of the surrounding hills and valleys (as I have seen in pictures and videos). And the good part is that, your car will take you to the highest point, so there is no need of hiking (unless you are a trekking enthusiast).
The journey to the hill top, through the meandering road, itself is a treat for eyes. With lush green meadows, hills and cultivable land on both sides, you can halt numerous times to capture that perfect frame. There are also watch towers at vantage points, which also offer breathtaking views.
As we approached the peak, we saw that the place is engulfed in clouds. And as we reached there, we found it was raining and the visibility was nil. We could feel the chilly breeze across our face and the sharp lashes of raindrops against our body.
This place offers the perfect solitude in the lap of the nature, and one can stare at eternity with a hot mug of coffee. But lady luck was not in our favour. Heartbroken, we spent few minutes at the watch tower and started our return journey.
Just 200-300 meters downhill, it was all clear. When we looked up, it was still raining at the peak. Later we came to know that, this romance of cloud and rain with the hilltop is quite unpredictable, and it is enough to dampen one’s spirits.
Our next destination was the Galigabadar Waterfall at Pottangi, near the Orissa – Andhra Pradesh border. Although not as majestic as the Duduma or Rani Duduma Falls, this waterfall is unique from the standpoint that the water flows down on a gentle slope of a rocky surface for around 200 meters, before taking a deep dive below. And the commonality with its two other sisters (Duduma and Rani Duduma) is its surroundings – the flora and the hills of the Eastern Ghats. The local authorities have built few gazebos along the stream which offer fascinating panorama of the landscape.
It was 4.30 PM by now, and we started our return journey towards the Koraput town. On the way, we took a detour towards the NALCO Township in Damanjodi, and headed for the Hanuman Temple. Here stands the 108 feet statue of the Lord, the second tallest in the world.
Day 1 evening: Jagannath Temple, Koraput Coffee Cafe in the Koraput town:
We came back to the Koraput town by 7 PM and visited the Jagannath Temple. Apart from the main temple with the idol of Lord Jagannath, there is a pavilion that houses different avatars of the Lord. The environment was very peaceful here and we sat down on one of the benches and rejuvenated our mind and soul. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited here, and so I could not click any picture.
A visit to Koraput can never be complete without a visit to the Koraput Coffee café. The outlet, with an open sitting area, serves freshly brewed coffee from local plantations. I felt that the quality and taste to be as good as the bigger brands like Barista, Café Coffee Day etc., although at a fraction of their cost. The ambience, art and decoration were also very much appealing. We purchased a packet of Ragi cookies which tasted superb.
After this, we came back to our hotel and had an early dinner in the adjoining Dolphin Restaurant.
Day 2 morning: Kolab Dam & Garden, Duduma waterfall:
Today, we had only 3 spots to cover (Kolab Dam, Duduma waterfalls and Gupteswar Temple), but they are far away from each other. So we started early, around 8 AM.
Our first stop was the Kolab Dam, situated on the Kolab River. The main gate opens at 9 AM, and we were a little too early. But the security persons at the gate were kind enough to let us in.
We drove till the highest point of the vast complex. More than the dam, the kids got excited to find a rabbit enclosure here. After a few clicks and gestures with the little creatures, we walked down a few steps to a large garden with many species of plants and trees. A few more stairs down and we were at the level of the river bed. We roamed around a bit here, and then took another route to walk till the main entry gate, where our car was waiting for us.
No sooner had we started for Duduma Waterfalls, than our driver stopped the car in the middle of a bridge. From here, we got the best view of the dam so far, straight in front of us.
The captivating landscape for next few miles, along the muddy Kolab river and surrounded by green valleys and dotted by hills, was a real treat to our eyes. We took quite a few stops enroute, appreciating the enthralling beauty of nature.
After travelling for more than an hour, we reached the Duduma Falls, at the border of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. Surrounded by hills on 3 sides, there are an equal number of sub-streams of the waterfall on each side.
There are two trekking routes here, the first to the top of one of the falls, and second to the base. We decided to venture to the top first. The trail route was rocky and slippery and there was always a risk of falling down. We took cautious baby-steps and after a 15 minute hike, we reached an open arena of large rocky surface. We paused for a while, took deep breaths and cherished the beauty in front of us – the fierce Machhkund river flowing along the boulders before taking the plunge. The struggle through the bushes and shrubs was ultimately fruitful.
As we sat on one of the rocks, it started drizzling and the surroundings became foggy. So, we slowly came back to the parking space. By now, the drizzles had turned into rain and we aborted our plan to climb down the second trail.
Day 2 afternoon: Gupteswar Temple:
It was a 2-hour journey from Duduma to the Gupteshwar Temple (literal meaning – the hidden god). On the way, we stopped at a roadside Dhaba for a quick lunch.
The main road that leads to Gupteshwar passes through the Gupteswar Forest Range. It was mesmerizing to travel through this road dotted with long trees on both sides. The last few Kilometers were through a hilly terrain, where the road was getting newly constructed dismantling the rocks. This expedition was a real pleasure.
From the car parking space, we had to walk for around 500 meters to the base of the shrine, and then had to climb another 200 steps to reach the actual temple located inside a limestone cave. Lord Shiva is worshipped here, and the Shiva Linga is believed to be increasing in size over time.
There are many caves in the vicinity, but only two of them are open for tourists – the Parabeda Cave and the Swargadwar Cave. We didn’t venture there. Instead we went to banks of the River Saveri, a walk of around 100 meters. We were thrilled by the ferocious river, making its way ignoring the mighty boulders on the way.
That was the end this day’s plan. On the way back to Koraput, we passed the city of Jeypore and the enticing and winding Ghat road that connects the two.
I still wonder, why with such a bounty of natural beauty, Korput is still ignored by travellers. I wish I had another extra day in hand to explore the places in much more detail.
Next day we had our train to Jagdalpur, the land of Waterfalls and the home to Chitrakote, the Niagara of India.
Some useful information and tips:
How to reach Koraput:
The best way to reach Koraput is by train. The town is connected to important cities like Kolkata, Bhubaneshwar, Sambalpur, Visakhapatnam and Jagdalpur by daily trains. The nearest major airport is at Visakhapatnam.
What is the best time to visit Koraput:
In my opinion, Koraput can be visited throughout the year. We visited in the first week of October, just after the monsoons. So, the waterfalls were just beyond their full might. The early mornings were a little chilly and the days were pleasant. The place being surrounded by hills and forests, should be pleasing during the summer also.
About Hotel Alishan:
The hotel is conveniently located on the main road that connects Koraput and Jeypore. The Deluxe Room that was allotted to us was a large and clean one, with the main bedroom, a changing room and a big bathroom.
The morning bed tea was complimentary. We also had breakfast included in our package, but the service personnel provided the same items of idly, upma and poori from a nearby shop on all 3 days. The taste was not all good. The Hotel management runs a restaurant – Dolphin Restaurant, which is open to outsiders also, and where the food was delicious and cost was pocket-friendly.
Overall it was a nice experience to stay at Hotel Alishan.
Details of Car Rental:
We rented the car for 2 days from Ma Thakurani Travels (Contact -+91-93375-92331). They charged us Rs 1000 (fixed) per day, plus Rs. 10 per KM travelled. We travelled a total of 460 KM (215 KM on Day 1 and 245 KM on Day 2). So, our total charge for 2 days was: Rs. (1000 * 2) + (460 * 10) = Rs. 2000 + 4600 = Rs. 6600.
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