Ever since I read about the Angkor Wat Temple in the history books during my school days, I had longed for visiting this archaeological masterpiece. That dream came true in the fall of 2023, as we planned for a trip to Siem Reap in Cambodia.
Angkor Wat is a part of the Angkor Archaeological Park. The park, located outside the city of Siem Reap, is spread over an area of around 400 sq. KM and is a magnificent display of the art and architecture of the Khmer Empire, that dated from the 9th to the 15th century. Here, you will find hundreds of temples. Some of these have been restored, while the others are in shambles.
Apart from the world famous Angkor Wat, the important ones here are – Angkor Thom complex (consisting of Bayon Temple, Baphuon Temple, Phimeanakas Temple, Terrace of Elephants, Terrace of Leper King and Tep Pranam Temple), Pre Rup, Ta Prohm, Banteay Srei, Phnom Bakheng, Preah Khan, Neak Poan, Ta Som, East Mebon, Suor Proat, Srah Srang, Banteay Samre etc.
Originally Hindus, the rulers later inclined towards Buddhism. So the art and architecture of the region is influenced by both Hinduism and Buddhism.
I have also written a separate blog on How to plan for a trip to Cambodia. It has the details of the important places of interest, how to reach, best time to visit, how to apply for Visa, Cambodian currency and many other topics. That article will guide you to plan a visit to the country on your own, and you will find it here: Cambodia Travel Guide.
How many days in Angkor?
This was the first question that came to my mind when I started planning for our trip to Cambodia.
On an average, a traveller spends 2-3 days in Siem Reap to explore the Angkor Archaeological Park. But if you have a whirlwind schedule, you can limit your stay to 1 day only, but then you can visit only the Angkor Wat and a couple of nearby temples. On the other hand, if you are an ardent lover of art and history, even 1 week might seem less to you.
Here, through this travelogue, I would explore the important places of the Angkor Archaeological Park. For the places of interest in the Siem Reap city itself, I have written a separate blog.
Our Itinerary for the Cambodia Trip:
We spent 3 nights in Siem Reap, exploring the city and the Angkor Park. Let me first tell you our complete itinerary, so that it is easy for you as you browse further:
- Day 1: Start from Kolkata International Airport around midnight, and after a layover in Bangkok, land at the Siem Reap Angkor Airport around 11 AM. Visit the Buddhist monasteries of Wat Bo, Wat Damnak and Wat Preah Prom Rath, and explore the Pub Street in the evening. Also, buy the 3-day Angkor Pass from the Angkor Park Pass Ticket Office.
- Day 2: Visit Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom complex (consisting of Bayon Temple, Baphuon Temple, Phimeanakas Temple, Terrace of Elephants, Terrace of Leper King and Tep Pranam Temple), Suor Proat, Preah Khan, Neak Poan, Ta Som and East Mebon. Sunset at Srah Srang.
- Day 3: Visit Kulen Mountains and Banteay Srei, Banteay Samre, Pre Rup and Ta Prohm Temple.
- Day 4: Visit the Royal Independence Garden, Royal Residence and Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap, and then travel to Phnom Penh by bus.
- Day 5: Phnom Penh local sightseeing
- Day 6: Remaining sightseeing of Phnom Penh in the morning. Check-out from hotel to catch the 2.25 PM flight to Kuala Lumpur and then to Kolkata.
Angkor Park Pass Ticket Office:
The first step to visit the temples is to buy the Angkor Pass from the Angkor Park Pass Ticket Office, located around 4 KM away from the city centre. Apart from the counter outside Banteay Srei Temple, this is the only place where you can buy an offline pass.
As the Ticket office was in a different direction from that of the Angkor Wat Temple and we had a very tight schedule for the next 2 days, we decided to buy the pass on the day we reached Siem Reap. Otherwise, you can buy it on the same day when you go for temple hopping.
About the Angkor Pass:
There are 3 types of passes that you can opt for – 1 day pass for $ 37, 3 day pass for $ 62 and 7 day pass for $ 72. These passes are valid for a period of 3 days, 7 days and 30 days respectively. For example, we purchased a 3 day pass and we could have entered the park for any 3 days (not consecutive days) over the next 7 days.
The ticket counters are open from 5 AM to 5.30 PM, and they are normally more crowded in the early morning hours. Please note that, you need to be physically present at the counter, as the authorities will click your picture and print on the ticket. You can get more information on the Angkor Pass in the Official website: https://www.angkorenterprise.gov.kh/
Angkor Wat:
Considered as the largest religious structure in the world, Angkor Wat attracts millions of tourists every year. It was built during the rule of King Suryavarman II in the 12th century. Originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it became a Buddhist shrine when the later rulers embraced Buddhism.
The central structures of Angkor Wat represent Mount Meru, the abode of the Hindu gods and goddesses. The moat or water body surrounding the temple complex symbolises the ocean around the mountain.
One of the most popular attractions of Angkor Wat is to witness the sunrise. For that, tourists need to start from their hotels around 4.30 AM. On the day of our visit, there was prediction of rain and so we dropped that idea.
After a sumptuous buffet breakfast at our hotel – Amber Angkor Villa, we started around 8 AM. Our driver for the next 2 days, Mr. Kimhak (+855 92 986 600), was waiting outside the hotel, and it took us around 20 minutes to reach the Angkor Wat.
Exploring the site:
From the parking lot, we crossed a foot bridge over a moat to reach the main temple complex of Angkor Wat. It is spread across a large area, bordered by a single storey structure. Here came across “Kuk Ta Reach”, the eight-armed black statue of Lord Vishnu, draped in a golden piece of cloth. He is worshipped by locals and tourists alike, and we found people lighting incense sticks. The walls here have elegant decorations and carvings and the rooms have stone idols that lay scattered.
Next we crossed a narrow corridor and reached an open area. It had a trimmed grassy land on both sides, and a pathway in the middle that leads to the five central temple towers.
These temple structures are architectural marvels, which speaks volumes about the unique craftsmanship of that period. Intricate bas-relief sculptures, depicting Hindu gods and goddesses and stories of Hindu mythologies like Ramayana and Mahabharata adorn the walls of the shrine. The exquisitely carved and finely engraved pillars left us speechless.
As we walked further, we found a queue to climb up the centre-most building. The steps here are too steep, and so it is not advisable for tourists with ailments in lower limbs to go up.
But once we reached the highest level, we were amazed by the specimens of stonework around us. Also, we got a spectacular view of the entire surrounding area.
Climbing down was more difficult, and we had to literally sit on every step as we moved forward.
We spent around 3 hours exploring the Angkor Wat, before moving towards our next destination – Angkor Thom.
Angkor Thom:
Angkor Thom, literally meaning the ‘Great City’, was the last capital of the Khmer rulers. It encompasses several notable monuments like the Bayon Temple, Baphuon Temple, Phimeanakas Temple, Terrace of Elephants, Terrace of Leper King, Tep Pranam Temple etc.
We entered the city through the South Gate of Angkor Thom, also known as the Tonle Om Gate. The approach road to the gate is bordered by statues on both sides – on the left are the Deva’s (the Gods) and on the right are the Asura’s (the Devil). They signify the constant conflict between the good and the evil.
Bayon Temple:
At the centre of the Angkor Thom complex is the Bayon Temple. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century, it was the royal temple of the Khmer king Jayavarman VII.
We were instantaneously charmed by the stone-carved smiling faces that welcomed us from the top of each tower. It is still debated whose face they reflect, whether Lord Buddha or Jayavarman VII.
We entered the central tower, exploring the labyrinthine corridors and pathways and getting lost into the rich artistry of the bygone era.
Baphuon Temple:
A short walk from the Bayon Temple brought us to the Baphuon Temple, built on top of an artificial hillock. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, it was later converted to a Buddhist temple.
To get to the main temple, we had to climb 3 levels of stairs. Out of these, the last 2 levels were so steep that our heads were literally reeling, especially when coming down.
Once we reached the top, we were greeted by a panoramic view of the surrounding area. The walls of the temple are ornately decorated by carvings. But we found that the grandeur of the Khmer art that we witnessed elsewhere was slightly missing here.
Phimeanakas Temple:
Next we followed the directions, and reached the Phimeanakas Temple. Here, a small one storey temple building stands amongst ruins. We found the structure in a state of disrepair. Even the entry of tourists is restricted.
Terrace of Elephants:
The Terrace of Elephants is an elevated platform, and was the king’s grand audience hall. He used it to witness celebrations and to interact with the army and common people. The place is named after the carvings of elephants on one of the walls.
Terrace of Leper King:
At a close proximity is another elevated platform – the Terrace of Leper King. On its top is a statue in a seated posture. As per legends, two of Khmer kings had leprosy, and the statue represents one of them.
It was around 2 PM by now, and we were hungry. We found some food shacks at the car parking space near the Terrace of Leper King, and ordered for some quick bite of fried rice and chicken.
Suor Proat:
After lunch, we walked towards Suor Proat, a group of 12 small temples in close vicinity of each other and just across the road from the Terrace of Elephants. These temples are made of laterite and sandstone. But they are in a state of total disarray. So, we didn’t spend much time here, and started for the Preah Khan temple.
On the way, we crossed the Northern Gate of Angkor Thom, another architectural masterpiece with a human face in all directions.
Preah Khan:
King Jayavarman VII built the Preah Khan Temple in the 12th century to honour his father Dharanindravarman II.
The complex is spread across a large area and located inside a jungle. We entered through the West gate and crossed a wide courtyard over a moat. It is bordered by statues of Naga carrying Asura’s on one side and Deva’s on the other, similar to what we saw at the Tonle Om Gate of the Angkor Thom. But here the asuras and devas are mostly beheaded.
The temple is largely unrestored with trees growing among the ruins, but what still remained amazed us. The beautiful and complicated carvings on the façade, the walls, the stone slabs and the pillars were fascinating. We also crossed a room that had a structure resembling a Shiva Linga.
We exited through the North gate, where our car was waiting for us.
Neak Poan:
On the east of the Preah Khan Temple complex is a large artificial water body, called the Jayatataka Baray. In the middle of this pool is the small temple of Neak Pean or Neak Poan which means the entwined or interweaved serpents in Khmer language. It was constructed during the reign of Jayavarman VII.
From the main road, we approached a wooden pathway over the water. Lotus, water lily and hyacinth floating in the water greeted us here. By now, the Sun had started turning golden, and its refection on the water made the whole surrounding magical. The temple hopping from the morning was getting a little monotonous by now, and this was a real welcome change.
There is nothing much on the island and there is no way to reach the temple also. We lazily walked around the place and came back to the mainland.
Ta Som:
Located just east of Jayatataka Baray is the small and serene temple of Ta Som. King Jayavarman VII also built it in the late 12th century.
The complex contains a single central shrine, whose eastern gate has been overgrown by a huge fig tree. The outer gates of the complex have carvings of calm smiling faces, similar to what we found at the Bayon Temple.
East Mebon:
It was already 5 PM by the time we came out of Ta Som. All the temples here close at 5.30 PM (except the Phnom Bakheng). So, we started with our journey towards Siem Reap. On the way, we stopped at the East Mebon Temple.
It was built during the reign of King Rajendravarman in the 10th century, and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The central temple structure is 3-tiered and resembles that of a pyramid. It has elegant and detailed carvings on the lintels.
Monolithic stone elephants adorn each corner of the first and second tiers, while stone lions welcome visitors at the entrance.
We had also planned to visit the nearby Pre Rup temple, but had to shelve it for the next day as we approached the closing time.
Srah Srang:
Srah Srang is a small temple in the middle of a large water reservoir. The place is famous for the captivating sunset that it caters to the visitors on a clear evening. Unfortunately for us, the day was mostly cloudy and the sunset was not that grand.
Unlike Phnom Bakheng, where tourists flock to witness the sunset, Srah Srang is a relatively quieter place, with not many people around. We sat on the bank of the water body, gazing at the setting Sun. As it became dark, we got up and continued our journey towards our hotel.
Banteay Samre:
On the Day Two of our temple hopping, we had planned to visit the Kulen Mountain in the first half. On the way, we took a detour and reached the Banteay Samre Temple, which is a little away from the main temples of the Angkor Park.
This Hindu temple was built during the rule of Suryavarman II and Yasovarman II in the early 12th century. It has impressive artwork on the lintels and exquisite decorations on the walls of the central shrine and vestibules. As we roamed around, we came across remnants and parts of idols that lay scattered.
Banteay Srei:
The one temple of the Angkor Archaeological Park that you need to cover as part of the trip to Kulen Mountain is the Banteay Srei Temple, as it is far away from Siem Reap. In case you are planning to visit the Kulen Mountain before the core temples of Angkor Park, there is a Ticket Counter at Banteay Srei where you can buy your Angkor Pass.
Banteay Srei was a Hindu Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and it has a Shiva Linga in its inner sanctum. It was constructed in the 10th century AD, around 200 years before the construction of Angkor Wat. This temple was built mostly of red sandstone. It stands out from other neighbouring temples for the unique red colour and beautiful intricate carvings on the sandstone.
Pre Rup:
It took us more than half an hour to travel from Banteay Srei to Pre Rup. King Rajendravarman constructed the temple in the 10th century by and dedicated it to Lord Shiva.
The name “Pre Rup” literally means “turn the body” in Khmer language. During the Angkor era, the funeral rituals involved rotating the body of the deceased several times. So it is believed that the place served as a crematorium for funerals to take place.
Here, the pyramid-shaped central shrine is built at a height, and is accessible through a flight of stairs. Made of red sandstone and brick, the temple assumes a magical state during sunrise and sunset, when the golden rays of the Sun reflect on its walls.
In fact, Pre Rup temple used to be an attraction to the tourists specifically during sunset, due to the magnificent views it used to cater from its highest level. But over the last few years, large trees that have grown around have obstructed the sunset view completely.
Ta Prohm Temple:
Possibly the most visited place after Angkor Wat and Bayon Temples is the Ta Prohm. More than its historical and architectural importance, what made it popular is the movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001), featuring Angelina Jolie, that was shot inside the temple complex.
King Jayavarman VII constructed Ta Prohm in the late 12th century as a Buddhist monastery and dedicated it to his mother.
We entered the temple complex from the East gate and moved towards the west. The approach path to the central shrine is bordered by forest area on both the sides, similar to what we found at the Preah Khan Temple. Soon we reached a flat stone terrace, which we crossed to enter an enclosure consisting of remnants of single storey structures.
The distinctive feature of Ta Prohm is the presence of enormous banyan and fig trees that spread their roots over the structures of the temple, engulfing them like the arms of an octopus.
Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap (APSARA) are restoring the temple in a joint venture.
Some useful information and tips:
How to reach Siem Reap:
Siem Reap has its own international airport, and has direct fight connectivity to all major South East Asian cities. Tourists visiting neighbouring countries like Vietnam and Thailand can also cross land borders by bus or car.
There are quite a few bus companies that connect Siem Reap with other big cities of Cambodia like Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville, Battambang, Kampot etc.
From Kolkata (India), we first visited Siem Reap, and then travelled to Phnom Penh by an AC ‘Air Bus’ operated by Virak Buntham.
Mode of transport to visit the Angkor Wat Temples:
The most popular mode of transport for visiting the temples is by hiring a Tuktuk or a Remorque. A Tuktuk is a three wheeled vehicle, what we call an Auto Rickshaw in India. Remorque is more spacious than tuktuk, and consists of a carriage or trailer that is pulled by a motorbike.
We visited Siem Reap in the month of October, and it was very hot and was raining intermittently. So, we decided to hire a car (with AC) instead. We explored the Angkor Archaeological Park and travelled to the Kulen mountain in the 7-seater Hyundai minivan of Mr. Kimhak (+855 92 986 600). For these 2 days, he charged us $ 105.
Mr. Kimhak is a very humble person and speaks nice English. I would definitely recommend him if you are looking for a car rental in Siem Reap. In case you need to travel to other cities like Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville, then also he can be at your service. You can contact him in the above phone number via WhatsApp or Telegram or via Facebook.
Best Time to Visit Cambodia:
Cambodia has a tropical climate, and it is mostly warm or hot and humid throughout the year. The best time to visit the country is between November and February, when the temperature is down by a few notches. Although the country receives intermittent rain throughout the year, it is better to avoid the peak rainy season from May till October.
Review of Amber Angkor Villa Hotel where we stayed in Siem Reap:
We stayed for 3 nights at the Amber Angkor Villa, and it was amazing. It is located conveniently near the Wat Bo monastery, and just a KM away from the Pub Street.
Ours was a Family room with a Double and a Single bed. The room was nice, although the Wifi was not always working properly inside the room. It cost us around $ 36 per night (including all taxes). We had breakfast included in our room rent, and the spread of buffet breakfast was really great. It included a live kitchen also. All the staff was very cordial and we felt the place our home.
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